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Beginner FAQ's
How do I
get started?
What
do I need to buy?
What's it all going to cost me?
What does all this stuff look
like?
Where
is the best place to buy all this?
I want to fly a
Spitfire
Can I learn to
fly helicopters instead of fixed wing?
I
suppose it takes months to build my trainer?
What exactly is
this "Radio Gear"?
Can you give me any advice on building and installing the radio gear?
How do I get started?
There are a number of ways to start model flying, however most of
them are somewhat expensive and can be very frustrating. It is very
easy these days to walk into a model shop or even a toy shop and
walk out with a plane that is almost ready to fly, but this is where
the problems start. In other words, the plane may be almost ready to
fly, but are you?
Before you part with your hard earned cash, visit a club and talk
to the guys flying. Most clubs members will be more than happy to
show you what it’s all about and give you lots of free advice. Some will even allow a trial flight with you taking control of the plane,
albeit linked to a ‘buddy lead’ so that an instructor can take over
if you get into difficulties. It is usually a good idea to arrange
this in advance of any visit. If you decide that you would like to
take up the hobby, it’s a good idea to join a model flying club
because they can provide a structured training programme which will
ensure that you don’t wreck your plane every time that you attempt
to fly it. The club can also provide insurance through their
membership scheme. Safe flying is vital, and most clubs have
experienced instructors who will teach these safety aspects of
flying, as well as the skills required to control the model. This
hobby will give you years of fun and enjoyment, and as you progress,
you can work towards the British Model Flying Association’s (BMFA)
proficiency scheme.
What do I need to buy?
Probably the best way to start is with a trainer. This will have an
IC (internal combustion) engine around about .40 cu inches in size.
A transmitter is needed to control the plane and inside the aircraft
will need to be a receiver and servos to operate the control
surfaces (elevator ailerons etc) These usually come as a package, but can
be bought separately. Of course there are quite a few makes and
you need to choose one that suits your bank balance and is
sufficient to take you past the learner stage.
In the UK we fly most models on 35MHz, so the transmitter must match
this specification. Within this frequency range a specific channel
needs to be chosen. This range runs between channels 55 and 90. Most people fly Mode 2 (Throttle on the left) so ensure
yours is the same.
Of course, there are other items that will need to be purchased;
these include fuel, a starter, a glow stick and some method of
getting fuel into the plane. Again talk to club members who are more
than willing to help you out.
Many items can be purchased second
hand from club members, Free ads, eBay etc. with considerable
savings.
What's it all going to cost me?
(All prices are
for new items and are approximate, ..... SHOP AROUND..)
Local model shops usually offer discounts to club members, take
your membership card, check what discounts are available.
4channel
trainer aircraft
e.g. Seagull Arising star
Ripmax Nova
Thunder tiger trainer
Irvine tutor
Seagull Jumper 25 |
£60
£63
£70
£70
£50 |
.40 engine
e.g. OS Max 40 LA
Irvine 40
Thunder Tiger 42
SC 40
.25 engine (for Jumper)
Leo 25
ASP 25
OS Max 25LA
|
£50
£65
£42
£42
£42
£40
£52 |
*Transmitter
e.g. Sanwa RD6000 sport [ suitable for FW and
heli ] 4 model memory
Futaba FF7
[ suitable for FW and heli ] 10 model memory |
£60
£100 |
|
*Receiver |
£35 |
|
*Receiver
battery pack |
£12 |
|
*Servos |
£8 each ( x4 =
£32) |
|
*Battery
Charger for transmitter and receiver batteries |
£10 |
|
* or usually
cheaper purchased as a
complete set |
|
|
Fuel pump |
£10 |
|
12v battery |
£20 |
|
Starter motor |
£25 |
|
Flight box |
£20 |
|
Insurance |
£28 |
|
Club Membership |
£50 (approx) |
What does all
this stuff look like?

A typical Transmitter
"set", showing Sanwa RD6000, receiver, 4 servos, battery, charger,
switch harness.
-
-
-
-
A typical trainer, the Ripmax Nova
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An OS max 40LA 2-stroke engine
A typical Flight Box with inclusive power panel, fuel pump
and 12V battery
-
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A typical 12 volt engine starter

Glow plug driver and charger

12 volt 7 AH Gel battery

And you will need a Gel battery charger, similar to this.
Don't use a car battery charger (The current is
usually too high)
Where is the best
place to buy all this?
-
You can visit the on-line shops on
my Links page, or use the Local Model Shops
-
Anglia Models Gorleston High st.
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Galaxy Models, Ipswich
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Pegusus Models, Norwich
(Ring road, past Sprowston)
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Keller Models, Norwich
(near Castle Mall)
-
Hobby Stores, Norwich Rd
Ind. Estate, Watton,
Also, consider used equipment from club members,
free-ads, eBay etc.
-
-
I want to fly a Spitfire
There is nothing nicer than seeing a scale Spitfire in flight.
However it is not an easy plane to learn on due to its design. The
high wing trainer with its flat bottom wing and dihedral is designed
to fly almost "hands off". In other words, if you let go all the
"sticks" it will automatically seek to fly a level flight pattern.
Also the Trainer is more forgiving if the landing is less than
perfect
Can I
learn to fly helicopters instead of fixed wing?
Of course. Many have started on helis.
It will cost you a little more to get started. For example, a Raptor30 heli starter deal with heli, TT39 engine, JR X2610 Radio c/w 5 Servos or RD6000 Radio
and gyro will set you back around £550.
-
- No, actually, most trainers are supplied in
ARTF form (almost ready
to fly) In other words the box comes with the fuselage, wings,
and tail already built and covered. All you have to do is join the two wing
halves together, glue the tail on, screw the undercarriage on,
and add the engine and Radio gear.
-
-
- It consists of the receiver, aerial, battery,
on/off switch, aileron servo, throttle servo, elevator servo,
rudder servo, as shown below.
Can you give me any advice on building, and installing the radio gear?
Building Advice
-
Take your time.
-
Read the
instructions, then read them again. Rush it, make a mistake and
you could well end up taking home a bag of bits.
-
If you have
any problems SEEK ADVICE. Use the recommended glues, if you're
not sure, get some scraps of the bits to be glued and test them
first.
-
Cyano,
polyester resins and glues like Evo-Stik can attack / eat some
plastics & foams.
-
Before you
glue, dry assemble the parts to check that they will really go
together. Better to find out now than when the glue is on the
wood..... If you're already a confident builder and/or good with
your hands, then use cyano for general jobs. If you're not, then
use some of the other glues such as PVA, Wood Glues
(Waterproof), epoxies and general purpose modelling glues.
Installing Radio gear
- Wrap the receiver in foam to stop engine, airframe and
flight shocks being transferred to the sensitive electronics.
- Install the receiver behind the battery. This minimises
impact damage due to the battery moving forward and hitting the
receiver during heavy landings/arrivals
- Fit the small brass bushes into the rubber grommets. These
help stop you tightening the screws too much
- Use screws that are long enough for the job
- Use screws not glue to hold servos in place
(There are some exceptions, ie ultra lightweight
planes)
- Protect the aerial with a small length of silicon fuel tube
where it exits the fuselage.
- Install the switch in such a position that it doesn't get
swabbed in the exhaust gunk and cannot be switched on / off
accidentally whilst carrying the model.
- Check that the servos are not stalling whist in use and have
full travel without obstruction from other nearby items. a
Stalled servo, a throttle servo stalled near to full travel, for
instance, can flatten a fully charged receiver pack in minutes.
- Never, Never, cut the aerial or coil it up. If necessary,
leave it dangling out the rear of the plane
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